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  #1  
Old 12-28-2006, 08:20 AM
soccerplaya5 soccerplaya5 is offline
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Smile Opening a Zen MicroPhoto

Does anyone know how to open a ZMP? I got a broken one, that i want to use for a little project im doing.

thankz
Soccerplaya5
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  #2  
Old 12-28-2006, 09:01 AM
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JDGAFFLIN JDGAFFLIN is offline
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No. But you can send it to me, so I can use it for spare parts....Especially the battery, and the battery case, and your wall charger, and while you are at it, the usb cord. Thanks in advance....
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  #3  
Old 12-28-2006, 12:57 PM
pdxsailorbiker pdxsailorbiker is offline
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Default opening a zmp

I will buy the headphone/usb circuit board if yo want to sell that part.
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Old 12-28-2006, 05:17 PM
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Here ya go... It is a disassembly guide to the Zen Micro

http://www.hardwarezone.com/articles...?cid=9&id=1331
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  #5  
Old 12-28-2006, 07:08 PM
soccerplaya5 soccerplaya5 is offline
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EnzoTen thats a tutorial for the zen micro which is a little different then the Zen Micro Photo . Anyone else know???


Thankz
Soccerplaya5
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  #6  
Old 12-29-2006, 01:28 AM
pdxsailorbiker pdxsailorbiker is offline
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Default zmp

The only differeance is there is no screw on the micro photo. That and you need a micro phillips to remove the LCD. I had to replace the LCD on my sons zmp. Be very careful of the micro sockets on the usb/headphone board.
My sons had been working great after the LCD replacement then he dropped it.
One of the micro sockets came off the usb board taking the traces with it.So now I need that board.
Tim
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  #7  
Old 12-31-2006, 08:12 AM
soccerplaya5 soccerplaya5 is offline
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Is there any trick to do this because i've slid the metal peice with the SN as far as possible and I tried pushing it out but it just woun't go. Are there maybe any invisible clips i have to push with a screwdriver in order to open it???

thankz
Soccerplaya5
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  #8  
Old 01-24-2007, 06:36 PM
dogskull dogskull is offline
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Having the same problem as soccerplaya. Also, where can I get an LCD for the ZMP? Mine is also cracked. All help is greatly appreciated.
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  #9  
Old 02-04-2007, 05:52 AM
kahuna13 kahuna13 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soccerplaya5 View Post
Is there any trick to do this because i've slid the metal peice with the SN as far as possible and I tried pushing it out but it just woun't go. Are there maybe any invisible clips i have to push with a screwdriver in order to open it???

thankz
Soccerplaya5
After you slide the metal plate down.
I usally hold the player upside down with the keypad facing away from you, while using both thumbs, press the metal plate at what would be the bottom of the player.

It takes a little force the get the bottom to push out, there are no invisible clips.
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  #10  
Old 05-09-2007, 11:25 PM
trikon000 trikon000 is offline
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Actually the microphoto has to snap clips on the bottom due to the fact that there is no screws on the top to hold it in place.

What you will have to do to get it to pop out is use a pocket knife or something small and thin enough to pry open enough to get the micro philip head into the metal clip area and wedge it up and out, once you get it out from the metal clips in the cast metal frame you can finish removing it with your fingers. Then you can follow the disassembly as shown in:

http://www.hardwarezone.com/articles...?cid=9&id=1331

There are slight differences in the connectors of the microphoto and the micro. The microphoto does not have bare connectors exposed.

After 3 hours of trying to pop the thing out, I took a pocket knife to it.

kahuna13: YES THERE ARE 2 invisible clips.
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  #11  
Old 05-22-2007, 07:38 PM
bassspanker bassspanker is offline
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Default More help?

Does anbosy have any further details concerning the disassembly of a ZMP? The above instructions are not clear enough to me.
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  #12  
Old 05-31-2007, 03:11 PM
trikon000 trikon000 is offline
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Here is a where the 2 inside clips are on the 8GB micro photo I got, those clips replace the design costs of the screws on the previous versions on the micro.




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  #13  
Old 06-04-2007, 05:31 PM
mdscriber3 mdscriber3 is offline
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Can someone post where exactly I need to pry to get the housings apart?

I can slide down the metal plate underneath the battery but beyond that, my fingertips and hands are numb trying to separate the housings.

Thanks

I'm looking to upgrade to a CF card.
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  #14  
Old 06-05-2007, 03:32 AM
trikon000 trikon000 is offline
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use a pocket knife. you can buy a cheap one from the corner drug store for a few bucks. get one with a thin blade, the smaller the better.

you can pry off the front cover high enough to wedge it open. the whole plastic face plate is held on with some super sticky stuff. you can slowly peel off the plastic face plate with the knife. seperating the face plate from the metal frame. the glowing outer ring is where you can use the pocket knife on, just pick a spot on the front where you dont really care if there are knife marks, anywhere not close to the corners is a good place to start.

I used the bottom middle to start. This was because the 2 internal clip ons are located right there. you will also need a small flat head screw driver to keep the plastic front wedged open to get to the internal clip ons.

Hold up and I will take some picture shots of how to do this in the morning. I will post some pics around noon (West Coast time) so this will be as clear as possible.
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  #15  
Old 06-05-2007, 10:04 AM
mdscriber3 mdscriber3 is offline
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Thanks so much Trikon, that description makes much more sense to me.

I will definitely pick up the pocket knife. I'll look forward to your pics (when you get a chance ... no rush). I haven't even bought the 16GB CF card yet. I just wanted to make sure I could open the MicroPhoto before purchasing it.

Thanks so much again.
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  #16  
Old 06-05-2007, 03:39 PM
trikon000 trikon000 is offline
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This method CAN and PROBABLY WILL leave damage to your microphoto.

I used an exacto knife to do this, the blade is very weak and made to break, that is why a small pocket knife is prefered.

in the picture below I used the exacto knife to get under the plastic face plate. in the picture you can see where I have made several attemps.





In the picture below you slide the metal plate under the area where the battery is. What you do not see is there is a small round warranty void sticker at the very bottom of the metal plate, remove that first before sliding the plate or it will make it more harder to remove later on.





now use the pocket knife or exacto knife to the area or any place in the picture you see with the metal exposed from the case.





Once you can slide the blade under the plastic face plate you can wedge a space of a few millimeters like so, that way you can get a small flat head scew driver (the electornic ones are ideal) in.







Now with a leaver motion on the flat head screw driver, slowly pry away the internal meta casing from the outer casing. You will need to alternate back and forth where the 2 internal metal clips hold onto the internal metal casing. The spots are highlighted in the #12 post.









Once you get the internal metal casing to show above the external casing, use your thumb to slowly press out the internal casing by applying pressure on the metal plate under the battery was. At this point becareful, the whole thing will pop out instantly and the white cover switch will fall off at this point. so keep track of where everything flys. For those that like to be perfectionists, you can cover the signs of your forced entry with some high gloss nail polish to cover the damage marks on the outer casing, you will need to get a color that matchs the outer color. Mine was white, so it was easy to hide the damage to the outer casing afterwards.







From here you can use the guide from hardware zone to finish taking the pcb boards apart to get to the micro drive.

http://www.hardwarezone.com/articles...?cid=9&id=1331

This should be as clear as possible the differences from the microphoto to the micro. There is an easier way to get to the internal clips but there are NO off the shelf tools to get the internal casing to seperate from the external casing.

If anyone is going to do what most of us will do, ie replace the micro drive with a 16GB compact flash. You should wait, the flash manufacturers just announced the release of 64GB and 128GB chips this year. These should show up in a few months. That means the price of the 16GB compact flash should fall under 200 by christmas hopefully.

place to get the 16gb compact flash chips should be online or at the specialty camera shops. That would be the likely places. don't go to your best buys or circuit citys they carry only upto 4gb and they charge much more. Fry's Electornics is another good place to look for the 16GB compact flash.
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Old 06-05-2007, 04:37 PM
mdscriber3 mdscriber3 is offline
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MAJOR EDIT: Don't do what I did with the tweezers (or do it at your own risk). It also looks as if I might have damaged the ribbon cable that connects the micro drive to the motherboard.

Thanks so much for the pics and the great explanation, Trikon.

I figured out how to get it open without all the damage to the casing.

When you open the battery compartment door, there are two openings at the bottom of the player on each side of the piece where you can insert the loop of a lanyard. I used one side of a pair of tweezers, inserted it into each hole and bent downward the metal which hooks onto those hidden latches in the plastic casing (you can see the metal edge if you look straight down into the holes), and I was able to push in on the bottom of the player on the metal plate behind the battery and pry the front of the player off. You may have to insert the tweezer a few times and bend the metal to get it unhooked. It took me a few tries before the casings would separate.

It works wonderfully with no cosmetic damage to the outside of the player.

However, a strong warning must be given that there are two connections on the circuit board that are very, very prone to breakage. They are on either side of where the headphone jack is, one is for the USB connector (I believe) and the other one is for the power button. I broke the one for the power button. They are connected to a smaller board that is inside the metal casing, which can be unscrewed out and replaced.

So now I need to get a broken MicroPhoto that still powers on and USB still works and use it's mini board and swap them out.

So for anyone who opens their MicroPhoto, be very, very careful not to just rip out the inside of the player once you get it disconnected from the metal case. Try your best to pop out the top portion of the player gently before separating the two halves.
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Last edited by mdscriber3; 06-05-2007 at 08:27 PM.
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  #18  
Old 06-05-2007, 08:49 PM
trikon000 trikon000 is offline
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No, in the micro photo the connectors are a pop in socket design, that was one of the fixes for the for the micro design. The bear connectors in the old micro design was prone to being compressed and becoming deformed over time or during mantainance.

Whatever works. I figured out your method right after taking it apart this way.
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  #19  
Old 06-05-2007, 09:29 PM
mdscriber3 mdscriber3 is offline
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Yeah, I don't know what made my connector come completely off the circuit board. And I was very very careful with it because I was warned by somebody else about those connectors breaking. Perhaps it already was not soldered on their well enough or something

I am working on getting a broken ZMP off of ebay right now. But thanks again so much for your help.
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  #20  
Old 06-29-2007, 03:42 PM
WelshBluebird WelshBluebird is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdscriber3 View Post
Yeah, I don't know what made my connector come completely off the circuit board. And I was very very careful with it because I was warned by somebody else about those connectors breaking. Perhaps it already was not soldered on their well enough or something

I am working on getting a broken ZMP off of ebay right now. But thanks again so much for your help.
Same thing just happened to me today.

Since I don't have a soldering iron here, I can't try it, but, as long as the contacts aren't damaged, couldn't you could just use a soldering iron to remove the existing solder from the connections, and then solder the connector back onto the circuit board?

(I'm not that used to working with electronics, so I could be talking about of my rear lol)

I'm not here next week, but I'd be willing to try it in a weeks time. (I think one of my friends has a soldering iron - if not, I could always see if I could use my School's Design And Technology department lol.).
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