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Old 02-12-2012, 09:19 PM
dcteague dcteague is offline
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Default O2: Making it more desktop friendly

So I posted some info in the monster thread for the O2 but figured since it was so long, I'd just post a separate thread that is more focused on what I am trying to accomplish.

I really have no need for a portable headphone amp, and don't want to wait for the desktop version (or it'll give me an excuse to build another). I find the layout for desktop use a bit awkward though (and expected) - I hate seeing wires in my system, so I usually hide them all - not really possible with every wire mounted to the front panel (or rear depending on how you want to look at it).

So I originally thought maybe I'd just route the power and input to the rear, and leave the rest. Then a smart person here suggested I route the volume pot and headphone jack instead - which seems to make sense. So here's what I'm planning to do, and I'd love to hear if I'm going to ruin the amp.

I have some extra SIP sockets from the gain resistors, so I'm going to use them for the LED, and just wire to the SIP sockets, and glue it to my front panel. Will this create any issues?

I also replaced the BOM suggested RCA's with rear mounting versions so that the pcb can be removed from the chassis. The ones in the BOM are face mounting, which requires removing wires from the RCA plug if you wanted to pull the pcb. An easy change. I will also wire these from the pcb remotely but with short wires).

I also moved the headphone jack (and used the 1/4" version) and will wire that to the front panel. I wonder if it would be possible to connect that to the pcb with the extra SIP sockets as well? Can't see how that connection would be any more degrading that the connection between the headphone jack and plug.

I took the front panel express layouts, and move the components around keeping their current distances between components, but increased the size of the panels. I was going to make chassis sides from wood, and use face, rear, and top/bottom panels for the rest. I was bummed to find that the panels cost $90 considering I've spent only $40 or so on the rest. Still a major bargain at $130.

Anyway, anyone see any issues with my approach to the above?

Also, what are the "stock" gain resistors? Not sure I need to change them, but I have them all in case I want to. Figured I'd start with them simply bypassed, and then play with it from there. I installed the sip sockets for these as well.
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  #2  
Old 02-15-2012, 10:25 AM
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El C El C is offline
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Not sure how often NwAvGuy checks this forum, you might want to ask on his blog.
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Old 02-15-2012, 10:35 AM
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His last activity on abi was 12-29-2011 @ 11:40 AM, you can check this on his profile page. You can always try a PM giving him a heads up of your post, he might have email notification set up …
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Old 02-15-2012, 05:57 PM
dcteague dcteague is offline
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One of his recent post indicated he's getting hit pretty hard with questions and since he had already responded to a couple from me, I figured I'd post them for others to ponder.

At this point, I've already completed the board and I'm just awaiting for the enclosure and front panel to complete things. Guess I'll know soon!
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