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Old 05-13-2011, 09:48 PM
sheok48 sheok48 is offline
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Unhappy ZVM Broken Battery Connector - Special solder?

Hello,

I have a 60GB ZVM successfully modded with a 64GB CF card. It has been working fine for a year or more until the other day when it simply stopped working.

I opened it up and discovered that the three inner pins of the battery connector have all come adrift. But do you think I can tack them back on again?! They just won't take. I am a technician with many years of experience in soldering circuit boards, etc. I'm using a fine iron and fine resin-core solder but no go.

What I'm wondering is - has anyone else has tried doing this or soldered other parts of the motherboard? Is it silver solder perhaps?

It's very frustrating looking at a now very expensive player (ZVM60 + 64GB CF) player which may now be just a brick if I can't fix it.

Any suggestions would be most welcome.
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Old 05-13-2011, 11:11 PM
sheok48 sheok48 is offline
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I've answered it myself...

I discovered that the 3 pins in question were probably dry-soldered in the first place and had subsequently become coated in oxide. This could possibly explain why all three disconnected at the same time. Using an eyeglass magnifier and a small file I was able to strip the oxide from both sides of the pins back to the original metal.

The tricky bit was holding the tiny connector while aligning and soldering the three pins to their relative PCB pads. I eventually succeeded, although the connector is not quite as vertical as it was, being difficult to reseat in its original position (nothing a little light adhesive couldn't cure).

I re-installed the CF card, reconnected the battery, now all is good!
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Old 05-14-2011, 03:51 AM
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coachop94 coachop94 is offline
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You may want to set-up shop. Many players have been thrown away for that problem.
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Old 05-14-2011, 10:13 AM
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delaware74b delaware74b is offline
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The problem is caused by RoHS-compliant solder. In others words: lead-free solder. It's well-known and documented to be brittle and subject to cracking, especially if not enough flux was used or if the solder was not hot enough.

Typical repairs can be accomplished with a hot, temperature-controlled iron. Also, if you're in the US, you can use regular 'leaded' solder for the repairs as long as the player isn't going to the EU.

I deal with computer motherboards that are full of RoHS solder and repairs can be difficult with thick copper traces on both sides of the boards. An 800F tip with a lot of mass usually does the trick, but you have to be skilled or you risk burning traces off the board. (Been there, done that, and bought a new board)
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Old 08-09-2013, 11:13 AM
adyblers adyblers is offline
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Had a similar problem just now. When I took off the back cover, I must have forced the batterys female connection on the main board and it at first slightly moved out of position and then completely separated from the board. With a steady hand, I forced the connector back onto the two pins that hold it to the board and very VERY carefully pushed the back cover into place from directly above as to not upset the alignment of the three pins. Voila! It works again, although for how long is anybody's guess. I didn't dare attempt to solder it as my soldering iron is really not up for the job. I'm just going to have to be very careful when docking it so that I don't upset the fragile connector again. I had been warned when watching a few youtube videos about it's disassembly that it was delicate, and boy, were they right! I guess, as with most tech stuff nowadays, they were designed to be assembled, not repaired.
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