so i looks like the codec is on chip ?! is the SOC made by sandisk ? i didn't know they had a facility that could mask an arm processor..

No, the SoC is most likely AMS. Sandisk have switched from PortalPlayer to the new AMS SoC recently (for example, the various v2's, the Clip, etc).

Charles

Shouldn't PBC be PCB in step 7?

SOC? SoC?

System on a Chip, which means that all parts (except the memory) are in one chip.

My question: What about the battery? I can't see it on the pics, can it be replaced or is it kinda special?

I am also interested by more detailled photos of the battery. Or if you know its capacity.

Awesome view! I only see mine from the outside. I just got it from www.shopsansa.com with a code and I couldn't be happier with this player. I think the design is exceptional.

Awesome view! I only see mine from the outside. I just got it from www.shopsansa.com with a code and I couldn't be happier with this player. I think the design is exceptional.

What was used to pry/pop it open ?

Hi the screen on my sons fuze cracked in several places. Where do I get parts??? I've tried Sandisk support and they tell me they don't offer replacement parts for there product. I have a 8gig fuze.

how much are your sansa sandisk battery charger

What is the trick on getting the ribbon cables back in place?

I've got 1 unit with a broken screen (stupid washing machine) and another with a broken wheel. I want to do a parts swap.

To buy a new Fuze battery:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2775916&cp=&sr=1&origkw=Sansa&kw=sansa&parentPage=search

Hello, wondered if you could take a picture of the battery. I wonder if it is the same as the battery used for the e200 series. Thanks!

The batteries are NOT the same. The Fuze uses a Lithium Polymer battery instead of the Lithium Ion battery used by the e-series players.

Do not buy a battery from Radio Shack, as it will only be the wrong one.

What bull shit !It seems as sansa is your advertising revenue sources your promoting their shitty products

Sansa Fuze is bad :

1. looks like a cheap copy of IPOD
2.useless supplied headphones
3.ver low grade flash memeory used

No wonder my sandisk usb drives die within months

sony and creative better any day !

Off topic, but does anyone know if they sell replacement housing for the fuze.

Thanks in advance

abc on 1/13 sounds quite bitter! I'm guessing he's trying to justify to himself why he paid so much more for an iPod. i've had a Fuze for about 7 months now and love it! Everyone I know that has used these feel they are much better than the iPod, especially when you consider the cost.

any suggestions on putting the ribbon cables back in easier.

It would be great if we had a zoomed-in pic of the battery, to see the specs for the lipo battery (and then, possibly find out where to get a replacement one xD)

I'm with wes, Anyone know how to get ribbon back in correctly?

I got patience but it doesnt seem to want to go in.

I DON'T have one of these.
It LOOKS like the ribbon cable plug is two pieces. You would have to push the (1) one piece down onto the other (2). THEN insert the cable.

Then HOLDING the cable in place, pull (1) back out..

can you post a bigger picture of the battery? i'm curious to look the connections.

On my battery I found the next readings:

+ BAK 374237P
. 8JJH8F26
| 3.7V 550 mAh

Hope it can be useful for those asking for a bigger picture so they can see the specs on it.

Does somebody know where can I get a replacement LCD screen to replace my broken one. Mine it's a Sansa Fuze 2GB. Thank & good luck.

How do I pry the top of it open? Only the bottom and one side will open.

hey got the fuze taken apart but how do u put the faceplate ribbon back in place i got it but not working all the way

How does one remove the wheel? My wheel seems to be stuck from whatever grime gets in it from working outside in construction zones and it appears that you did not remove your wheel in the disassembly process. Is that because this tutorial is mostly for battery/screen replacement, or is it because the wheel cannot be removed without breaking it?

Anybody have the part number for the display or any ideas on where to purchase one? Seems like a waste to ebay my busted fuse, I've barely used it but apparently I cracked the display somehow. =*( Guess I'll have to crack mine open to find it.

For all those looking for replacement parts.. I just got a brand new one from amazon for less than $40. Replacement of the whole shebang might be easier and cheaper than trying to locate spare parts.

my battery is going down fast,what can i do about it?

I think i will just return my with a dead battery, so my son can ensure a new fuze with clear and clean screen.

If your rotator wheel is stuck don't take it apart like I did. Just put some WD40 around the wheel and wipe it good. The wheel turns easily now. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to get the ribbon cable back on so the player can work properly?

On my Sansa Express, I got the ribbon cable in by lifting the black flap, and then holding the ribbon cable in place with a screwdriver, while I pressed the black flap down on it. It took me a few tries, so anyone trying this-- be patient.

Thanks for the disassembly pics.

Good luck!!!

i had a problem getting the cover ribbon back on. The little black flap has to be open and wiggle it back in then shut the flap. note the black flap is opposite the side the ribbon gos in

"Step 2: Remove ribbon cable from face plate. Lift the face off and flip the brown ribbon release flap on the connection."

Removing the ribbon cable from the face plate is exactly WRONG! Fortunately I looked at the large version of images 5 and 6 before trying very hard to do so. Obviously, one needs to remove the ribbon cable from the logic board, leaving it attached to the face plate. And what does "flip the brown ribbon release flap on the connection" mean? I don't see any brown flap anywhere and what connection is being referred to? The white one on the logic board? If so, it should be stated.

These instructions need to be rewritten.

(I managed to get the cable out of the white connector by jiggling it in the right direction. I hope I didn't damage anything in the process.)

shawn wrote: "The little black flap has to be open and wiggle it back in then shut the flap."

Which way is "open"? Does one move the black tab towards the screen or away from the board? (And presumably "it" refers to the cable, not the flap.)

Please write more precisely, folks!

I'm guessing that the flap has to be lifted away from the board to enable the ribbon cable to be slid in. But I've tried it both ways and have had absolutely no luck. It seems that I'd have to pay a jeweler to do it for me, which would probably cost me as much as the thing is worth.

Can anybody who has succeeded in getting the ribbon back in please describe exactly how you did it. Did you tape or clamp the device onto a stable surface so that you could use both hands? Did you then use a tweezers on the cable?

Help!

madgrace on July 31, 2009 2:08 AM:

"On my Sansa Express, I got the ribbon cable in by lifting the black flap, and then holding the ribbon cable in place with a screwdriver, while I pressed the black flap down on it. It took me a few tries, so anyone trying this-- be patient."

Presuming the Express is like the Fuze in this particular, at least, please explain what you mean by "holding the ribbon cable in place". If you mean 'in place inside the white connector', how do you get it _into_ the connector? That's what I can't figure out how to do. Or maybe you mean something else?

It should be noted that the logic board (PCB) shown here is the version 1 board. The version 2 board doesn't have that big black square chip on the front.

To answer my own question and more:
The black flaps on both ribbon cable connectors (including the one for the LCD cable) are open, i.e., allow the cable to slide in and out, when the edge of the flap is lifted away from the PCB. In both cases the edge of the flap that needs to be lifted is toward the top edge of the device.

I verified that the ribbon cable from the front panel can be slid into its connector and locked with the black tab. But I did this by removing the control assembly that contains the ribbon from an extra front panel I had (one with a scratched-up screen). It still seems beyond me to get that ribbon into the connector while the ribbon is attached to the front panel, but some people have obviously done it, so I'm going to work on it.

I've seen some replacement batteries on ebay.

Does anyone know how to fix the white screen of death by opening up the fuze?